We are often asked what to do when your new dog gets home. We hope you will find this useful.
Sections:
3. Quiet time
6. Feeding
7. Exercise
8. Crates
10. Training
11. Loud Sounds
1. A GOLDEN RULE
The 3-3-3 rule of rescues seems to really ring true. It’s described below.
The First 3 Days – Expect some chaos. Think about your dog suddenly finding themselves in another new home, new people, new sounds, maybe a new dog friend. They might be anxious and confused, excited, scared. They may not want to eat or drink. They need time to figure out the rules, the flow of the home, where they belong in this new world they have suddenly found themselves in. We ask you to be patient, be calm, and help your dog understand they are safe and welcome.
The First 3 Weeks – Things are starting to settle down. You’re getting to know each other. New routines are being established. Familiar smells and people are now everywhere. New friendships are forming. They’re exploring their new home and neighborhood. They may be starting to push their boundaries and you might see new behaviors. This is a critical time. Your new dog is looking to you now for guidance and companionship; to show them what is expected; to begin that bond that we all want and need.
The First 3 Months – Success. It feels like you’ve been together forever. That bond is strong and getting stronger. Everything has started to settle into a smooth routine. Your dog is feeling safe and realizing they are finally HOME.
All we ask is that you give your dog time, love and understanding. Don’t rush them through this process. Let them learn YOU before they are asked to learn the whole neighborhood. Show them what you want them to do. Be kind, gentle and forgiving. Take the time to build that foundation and the rest will build itself.
2. BREAKING IT DOWN
Your new dog may be different from when you first meet to when your new dog is in your home for the first time. Once in their new home, your dog may temporarily regress in behavior, almost going thru a rapid repeat puppyhood, having accidents in the house, whining a bit, pacing, crying, exhibiting separation anxiety problems, etc.
Or, your dog may be very, very quiet at first, and then, 2-4 weeks later, the “real” dog appears. Sometimes dogs behave more calmly when they’re unsure of things. Their real character can come out later and more closely resemble what you saw in your first visit with the dog. Be sure to establish a good schedule and lots of structure with your new dog to help them settle. Remember, it’s all brand new and kind of scary for them.
Show your dog what you want them to do, and not so much what you don’t want them to do. Ignore most of the minor stuff for now and reward the behavior you want. Most of this early behavior will change rapidly as the dog regains confidence and starts to bond with you.
Even if your new dog went potty outside in their prior home, you may have to remind your dog they are in a new home now. Your new may not automatically know this so treat housebreaking problems as you would with a puppy, using a crate and establishing a firm potty schedule. Taking your dog out to the same spot works well and don’t forget the praise when your dog gets it. Don’t let your new dog have free run of the house and watch for signs your dog needs to go outside. Set your dog up to win right from the start! Watch for typical pre-piddling behavior, circling, sniffing, etc.
Do not scold or hit a dog for having an accident and never, ever rub their nose in their pee or poo. You are in control of the door to outside so you will need to watch closely and take your new dog out frequently, so they learn what you want them to do. When your dog wakes up or has just had a meal or a good drink of water, be ready to take him outside. Repeat a command, like “go potty”, over and over slowly and quietly. Once your dog goes potty, give lots of praise. If nothing happens, bring your dog inside, without showing anger, crate or confine for 15 minutes and then try again. Be patient!
Your newly adopted dog needs your patience and affection, especially if he has been in many different situations recently. Whenever he does something good, be sure to let him know! Happy praise and affection lets your dog know what is expected and rewarded. This includes lying quietly and behaving…let your dog know that this is desirable behavior.
3. QUIET TIME
We recommend that after you bring your newly adopted dog home, relax and let your dog check out the house and yard and figure things out for a few hours. Don’t expect your new dog to automatically understand all the rules. Wait a week or two before inviting friends and relatives over to meet your new dog. This is important! Hosting a party on your new dog’s first night is not a good idea!
Rescue dogs have already been through a series of changes, so quiet time with the immediate family is important. If your dog wants to play a bit with you, that’s fine. If your dog does not solicit play or attention from you, however, don’t push. Let it come naturally. ALWAYS supervise your dog with children. It’s extremely important that you don’t allow children to get too excitable around your new dog. Don’t let them hug and hang on your dog or run around yelling. Teach all children to respect your dog and your dog’s space.
4. MEETING YOUR CURRENT DOG
When you adopt your new dog, we will require you to introduce all family members, including current dog(s). While this introduction may go perfectly fine in a neutral environment, your home may be quite different. This is your current dog’s territory with their bowls, beds, toys, balls, etc. They may not want to share right away.
Reintroduce your dogs slowly and calmly. You may want to take them to a neutral spot or a walk around the immediate area. Make sure adults are present, each responsible for one dog. Keep a few yards apart, then stop and chat, again keeping them apart for a couple of minutes. Now allow them to meet as nonchalantly as possible. Keep the leashes loose but remain vigilant. Try to project that you are calm and relaxed. The dogs have met at least once before already during your visit and may have ridden home together, so this meeting should go smoothly for the most part.
While your dogs are getting to know each other, they should be crated or tethered separately in your vehicle or be put into different vehicles. You don’t want your dogs to have a disagreement while you are driving and can’t manage it.
You may want to crate your new dog at night for the first few weeks until you’re sure the dogs get along well. You should ALWAYS be present whenever the dogs are together for the first couple of MONTHS! They are still working things out and establishing boundaries with each other.
Introducing a new dog into your home with an existing dog or dogs can be challenging. You may want to crate the new dog in the house and let the other dog(s) get used to the new dog’s presence. Be careful with treats and toys at first as this is where scuffles can break out. Just remember to be calm and take your time.
5. MEETING YOUR CAT
It’s best to keep cats separated from your new dog in the beginning. Put the cats in an area of the house that can be shut off for a while. Let the cats and dog sniff each other under the doors and get used to the new smells.
Make sure that when you do introduce them, there is a way for the cat to escape from the dog. This could take a few days or a few months. Please contact your Adoption Counselor if you need further information about introducing dogs and cats.
6. FEEDING
While your dog was with us, we fed a high-quality mixture of kibble and canned or raw food twice a day. We will provide you with a few days’ supply of what your dog was eating to help you gradually transition to whatever you choose to feed. We encourage you to look into feeding your dog a clean, high quality diet with added fruits and veggies.
If you have other dogs, you may want to feed your adopted dog away from your other dogs at first. NEVER feed your dog right before or after hard exercise, as doing this may contribute to causing an often fatal condition called “bloat”. Bloat involves excess air in the stomach which could cause torsion (twisting) of the stomach, a life-threatening emergency. Wait an hour after hard exercise to feed. Offer your dog fresh clean water at all times.
7. EXERCISE
Daily exercise if very important to your dog. Engage your dog mentally with obedience training, tricks, search and find or any other ‘games’ for dogs. Engage your dog physically with walks, fetch, hiking, etc. If you want to run with your dog, please work up to distances slowly as your dog may not be used to this much exercise. Never do heavy jogging with a dog under a year old as this could damage your dog’s joints and development.
Remember, A Tired Dog is a Happy Dog. Just like with people, when dogs receive a healthy balance of physical and mental stimulation, they will be happy and well-adjusted.
We recommend you not play games like ‘chase’ or ‘roughhouse’ with your new dog until you have established a good bond and your dog is comfortable in their new home. Your dog doesn’t know you yet and these activities may be too stimulating or even threatening to your dog.
You may want to keep your new dog on a leash in your home and/or fenced yard for a while to help with recall. Your new dog may be frightened or may just ignore you until they understand where they are and who you are. Don’t leave your new dog unsupervised until they are comfortable in their new home. Your new dog may not realize this is now HOME and may think the dog on the other side of the fence is more interesting.
ALWAYS keep your dog on a leash when outside of your fenced yard. Even if you believe your dog has excellent recall, a squirrel darting across the road is often too much temptation for a dog, regardless of their great recall training.
8. CRATES
Every dog needs a place to escape to, a place all their own. A crate, closet and even the shower is often quite appealing to a dog. Respect your dog’s need to be alone and don’t let children invade your dogs ‘safe spots’.
While crating your dog is your choice, we do recommend you crate train your new dog. Crate training can help with potty training and can keep your dog safe while they get used to other animals in the home; when you are away from home for short periods of time; or during emergencies. Crates are also great to have for traveling.
Many people see crates as jails however your dog may see it as their safe place, a quiet den, a place to chew their treat in peace. You may find that if you leave the door open your dog will go there on their own.
Important: While crating a dog helps keep your dog safe, crating should NOT be abused by locking your dog in its crate all the time and never as a form of punishment. Your dog needs to be with you and should be unless they cannot be trusted alone in the house or you cannot supervise them at the time. For instance, if you need to go to the store and your dog is not yet trustworthy alone in your home, crate your dog for safety. You should not crate your dog for long periods of time (e.g., while you are at work all day or otherwise away for more than 3-4 hours).
9. SOCIALIZATION
Socialization is important to all dogs however not all dogs want to be social. Keep in mind your new dog needs time to know YOU before meeting the whole neighborhood.
Some dogs will be naturally social, easily meeting new people and new dogs. Some dogs will be less social, hanging back and maybe avoiding new contact. Let your dog set the pace while making sure meetings stay calm and easy. Do not force the dog to accept other people, do it positively, with lots of praise, allowing the dog to approach people, rather than people approaching the dog.
Ask people not to reach for your dog right away and allow your dog to initiate meetings. Don’t allow people to pat your dog on the head. Once your dog is comfortable with the new person, petting the neck or shoulders is much more comfortable for your dog.
Don’t expect your dog to like every new dog or person they meet. Allow your dog to make the choice. Be extra vigilant at dog parks as not all dogs belong in a dog park and most people are not paying attention. Socialize your dog with known, friendly dogs so every meeting is a good experience.
10. TRAINING
We strongly encourage you to enroll your dog in obedience classes. This will not only build your relationship with your dog but also helps you both gain confidence in training and working together. Group training is excellent for most dogs as they learn to “work” around distractions. It’s also great for socialization with other dogs and dog loving people.
When going for a walk, always keep your dog on a leash. It is safer for your dog and it’s the only way you can properly control and/or correct your dog if the need arises. Know your leash laws and follow them.
Leash reactivity does not always mean your dog is aggressive. Leashes cause frustration and often your dog will have no issues with other dogs when off leash. Leash reactivity is the most common behavioral issue we see. While it can be limiting for you and your dog, with patience, practice and, if needed, assistance from a trainer this behavior can be corrected.
We encourage to you reach out to us immediately if you are seeing unwanted behavior and we will work with you to find the appropriate trainer.
11. LOUD SOUNDS
Some dogs are born with noise sensitivity and some have had a bad experience. Thunder, lightning, fireworks, horns, etc., are all sounds that cause some dogs to become extremely nervous and frightened, often hiding, pacing, climbing on people, whining, and other signs of anxiety not normally seen. With a new dog, you need to watch and see if this is a potential problem.
Dogs that have noise sensitivity may try to escape by jumping/climbing fences or bolting out doors. They may become aggressive with other dogs in the house. Dogs can hear sounds we cannot so if your new dog suddenly exhibits any of these behaviors, listen carefully for a noise that you may otherwise pay no attention to. Was there something on the TV or outside?
The 4th of July and New Years Eve are two dates especially difficult for noise sensitive dogs. Fireworks and gunshots often cause heavy anxiety for dogs and dogs will often bolt and run, becoming lost and disoriented. Please plan to be home to supervise your dog during these times or keep them safe inside. Turn the TV on or turn the music up. If the dog becomes really frantic, it may be best to crate or further contain your dog in a smaller space. Turn the TV on or turn the music up. Some dogs are so sensitive they require medical sedation to keep them safe.
12. DOG PROOFING YOUR HOME
Remember, dogs are curious and active and, like children, will want to explore everything everywhere – especially puppies and young dogs. Your home can be a dangerous place for your dog and you may not even be aware of the dangers. Cleansers, drain cleaners, anti-freeze, paint removers, chocolate, grapes, macadamia nuts, many medications, etc., can all be deadly. The garden can also harbor poisonous plants and bulbs, weed-killers, snail bait, fertilizers, mushrooms, etc. Dog-proof your home by moving dangerous items to locked or very high cabinets and removing or relocating dangerous plants.
Dog-proofing your home also means making sure that you have high fences and gates that are locked on the inside.
13. THINGS TO HAVE READY FOR YOUR NEW DOG
a) A crate as discussed above. A wire crate is preferrable as they are less confining and allow more air circulation than a plastic crate. Crates come in sizes so make sure your crate is large enough for your dog to easily turn around in.
b) Collars and ID tags or a collar with permanent ID are a MUST! There are many types of collars for different activities and different training needs. Your dog will have a martingale collar, leash and an ID tag with our tag number and phone number. We recommend you leave this tag on your dog’s collar, along with your personal tags, just in case you cannot be reached should your dog get out. Let us be a second level of protection.
We ask that you do not use ‘aversive’ collars such as pinch/prong collars, shock/e-collars, choke chains, etc. as these may do more harm than good. Please do your research and work with a fear-free or punishment-free trainer. Training may take longer but your bond with your dog will be stronger, and you won’t have to rely on these aversive collars just to walk your dog.
Your dog’s microchip will be transferred to you shortly after adoption.
c) Food, bowls and treats. We will give you a small amount of the food your dog has been eating to help with any transition needed. Remember to feed a high quality of food as discussed above.
Treats should also be of high quality. Treats used for training should also be ‘high value’ treats, something your dog just can’t resist. Kibble is probably not high value.
We recommend stainless steel bowls for food and water as they are easy to clean, don’t break and typically can’t be chewed and ingested.
d) Toys. Most dogs enjoy toys. Chew toys, balls, and squeaky toys may be good options at first until you determine what your dog especially likes to play with. Make sure the toys are appropriately sized. Toys and ball that are too small and can be swallowed or chewed into pieces can be a choking hazard. Please do NOT feed rawhide. It’s hard to digest and gets slippery and dogs could swallow large pieces which could cause choking and blockage. Kong type toys filled with peanut butter and kibble, raw or canned food can be frozen and provide a long lasting, healthy treat.
Please check all sweetened food, like most peanut butter, to be sure it does not include Xylitol, which is deadly to dogs and other animals. Do not leave your dog unsupervised with toys and chews.
Finally, if you have a question that we did not answer, check with your adoption counselor or email us.